Friday, December 23, 2011

Eyebrows


Eyebrows can be very important for a round face and how they are shaped makes a big difference.
For a round face, eyebrows are shaped best when they have an angle at the center as shown in the picture below. They should be widest at the front, go up to a peak, and then come down and get thinner as they do. Doing this creates an angle and draws your eye upwards towards the angle, drawing attention away from the center of your face and upwards


mascara


The longer you make your eye-lashes, and the wider to the side, the larger your eyes will look. I have found that Clinique High Impact mascara is best, and I have used  A LOT of mascaras. It never turns out clumpy, and it does a great job of separating your lashes and lengthening. I can see a huge difference in quality between mascara brands. Although drug store brands are much cheaper, I have never found one that works half as good as Clinique’s does. 


Eyeliner


For round faces, it is very important that not too much dark eye-liner be used. This causes your eyes to look smaller and attention to be drawn to the inner corners of your eyes as opposed to the outer corners. When applying eyeliner, never make it too thick, and ALWAYS have it be thickest at the very outer corner of your eye.
When your eyes are open, you want to be able to see the eyeliner as well as part of your lower lid. Your eyeliner should never be so thick as to look like it is touching the crease when your eyes are open. For some, this means making a very thin line very close to the eyelashes. Because I have very small lower lids, I apply eye-liner as thin a line as possible, and sometimes stop half way in the middle of my eye.
If using a liquid liner, I like to make it just slightly thicker at the end, and extend just past my eye. This draws attention to the outer corner of my eye.

Eye Shadow- Contouring for Different Eye Shapes


Different eye shapes can be handled differently by contouring the eyes to enhance features you want to enhance or downplay features you want to downplay.

For eyes that are wide set- have a large distance between them- you want to emphasize the inner corners of your eyes so as to not make them appear so far apart. One way to do this is to put hilighter on the inner corners of your eyes to draw attention to them. As far as eye shadow goes, you want to make it slightly darker towards the inside of your eye and lighter as it goes out, and line your eyes starting at the inside and go half way out. Apply most  mascara on the inner lashes

For eyes that are very close set, you want to emphasize the outside corner of your eyes. To do this, you want to put the darker color on the outside half of your crease, and apply your lines from half way across your lid to the outside and extend slightly past the outside to create the illusion of your eyes being wider. Also, when applying your mascara, put most at the outer corners and use the brush to spread them out as wider as possible.
For small eyes, you want to focus on lighter colors to brighten your eyes and make them stand out more, and avoid darker colors as they will make them appear smaller.



The following diagram shows more specifically how you can expertly contour your eyes based on your specific eye shape





Clinique makes wonderful eye pallets that make it very easy to find colors that complement each other and can contour your eyes. In each pallet there is two colors, the base color and the contour color. The base color is the bigger swatch. 


Eye- Shadow Basics


For round faces, how you apply your eye makeup is very important. You want to draw attention to your eyes, particularly to the outward corners of them to make your eyes appear as big as possible as this will distract from the roundness of your face


My favorite product for eyes is cream eye shadow base. It can be used as an eye shadow alone or under eye shadow to make eye shadow last all day, without smudging. Many different brands make eye shadow cream bases, my favorites being Bobbi Brown and Clinique. If you are looking for a more budget friendly line however, Covergirl recently came out with a new line of eye bases that I have heard very good things about.
If you want to use the cream shadow solely as a base, you can get a skin color shade that will not add any extra color to your face but will serve the purpose of extending the wear of your eye shadow. For this type of cream base, I typically apply it from my eyelashes all the way to my brow, as you cannot tell you have it on. If you want to use it as a great long-lasting eye shadow or to complement the other eye shadows you are wearing, both Bobbi Brown and Clinique carry a wide variety of colors. In addition, Bobbi Brown has a line of glitter cream eye bases if you want it to really stand out or for a night out or a little extra fun (See links below).





Contouring your eyes is a great way to make them stand out. To do this, start with a base color. It is best to use a very pale color, such as cream light pink, light violet…etc. whatever color you would like, in a light shade. Next, use a color that complements your base, and is several shades darker. I almost always go with dark brown that has some sparkle to it to do the contouring. Apply this darker color IN THE CREASE. This part is the most important. You do not want it on the bone, but slightly below it. Right where your eye folds. If you have done this correctly, when you have your eyes open the color can only be partially seen and should not be totally obvious. As you can see in the pictures, when your eyes are closed you should be able to see the base color on the top and maybe the bottom, and the darker color in a half circle above it.






To draw even more attention to your eyes and make them look even larger, a sparkly very pale color can be applied directly under your brow bone. Just make sure this color does not contrast too much with the other colors you choose- you want the attention it draws to be subtle- not look like a clown.





Hi-Liter


Hi-liter is an awesome tool for those with round faces. It helps draw attention to areas you want hi-lighted and works in the same way contouring does.
The areas you want to hi-light are the opposite of the areas you applied the darker shades to when contouring- the top of your eyelids right under your eyebrow, the top of your cheek bones, down the center of your nose, and in the center of our forehead
It is important to find a hi-lighter that is not too shimmery, especially if you have used a shimmery eye-shadow and/or bronzer
As I’ve mentioned before, you want the hi-lighting wants to be subtle, just as the bronzer.





This picture is a great demonstration of the areas in which you should hi-lite. 

Blush


On a round face, blush is a great way to add angles. If you’re using bronzer, apply the blush AFTER your bronzer. To create an angle on your face, apply the blush at a diagonal angle. Start at your temples, and create a diagonal line going down to the hollow of your cheek as shown in the picture below.
When applying blush, use either a flat brush, or squeeze your brush in the middle between your index and middle fingers to create a more flat shape and then sweep it diagonally from your temples to the hollow of your cheeks in a back and forth motion. DO NOT apply your blush in circles as this will go against the angle you are trying to create, remember to go back and forth to create a line. If the line is too blunt and needs softening, blend it a little with your fingers
Be careful not to use a blush that is too dark for your skin tone as this will create too sharp and obvious of a line. The point is to create subtle angles on your face and not making it obvious that you are using make-up to contour your face-the whole thing should look as natural as possible.
Blush is one of the only make-up factors that I consider to be the same any brand- blush is blush. I buy mine at CVS and pretty much use whatever is on sale that has the color I want. No need to buy your blush at a department store as I recommend you do with other components such as mascara, because blush for the most part does not differ much in quality and therefore almost any brand will do.